Ingredients

We use only natural, safe products, and buy organic whenever we can. We also believe that you have the right to know what you are using, so we provide information about all our ingredients.

Ingredients we use,
organized alphabetically:

A  B  C  D  E  F  G  H  I  J  K  L  M
N  O  P  Q  R  S  T  U  V  W  X  Y  Z

There are some ingredients our historical recipes call for that we don't use. Here's why:

Ambergris

This is an animal-based material that was often used in perfumery. It is a wax-like secretion from the intestine of the sperm whale. While it does not harm the whale to use ambergris, the material is prohibitively expensive.

Civet

This perfume is obtained from the scent glands of the civet, a small wild cat. Like ambergris and musk, it is very expensive.

Labdanum

Also spelled ladanum; it is a gum resin from the rock rose. While the essential oil is available commercially, it is expensive; if you would like, you may purchase it yourself and add a few drops when it is called for.

Musk

This is a secretion of the male musk deer. Its expense prohibits its use in our products.

Sandalwood (yellow)

Unlike the red sandalwood, the fragrant yellow sandalwood (trees of the genus Santalum) is endgangered, and we did not think it environmentally conscious of us to use it. The recipes that called for this ingredient are already heavily scented, so they lose nothing by its omission.

A

Alcohol

Most modern cosmetics use ethyl alcohol, which is grain alcohol. The exact type of alcohol is not always specificed in historical recipes, although sometimes they mention the strength: "sixty degrees above proof" for instance.   Alcohol is a wonderful preservative, and if you are afraid of it drying out your skin, follow it up with a moisturizer (like our Cinnamon Unguent, Pomatum, or Cold Cream).

Alkanet

The roots of the plant Pentaglottis sempervirens have been used as a coloring agent for a long time. Gerard's Herbal, published in 1633, states that "the Gentlewomen of France do paint their faces with these roots." Alkanet yields a purple dye for natural fibers; as a cosmetic, its deep red has tinted many a cheek and lip.

Almond Oil

The oil that comes from almonds is quite useful in both cosmetics and cooking; beware, of course, if you have any nut allergies.

Alum

You can find this in the grocery store, with the cooking spices. It is a naturally occuring chemical (like salt); the full name is aluminum sulfate.

Ammonium carbonate

Arabic gum

Arrowroot

The plant Maranta arundinacea gives us a natural vegetable starch that is used in cooking and, in our case, cosmetic powders.

B

Beeswax

This is what holds the honey in bees' little storage compartments; it is secreted by the bees, like a spider secretes spider silk. Beeswax is used for many things, most recognizably in candles. It is a natural, organic, renewable wax, unlike petroleum-based waxes.

Benzoin Gum

East Asian storax trees give us this resin.

Bergamot

The bergamot orange, Citrus aurantium subspecies bergamia, gives us, among other things, the flavoring in Earl Grey tea. The peel of this citrus fruit and its essential oil have been scenting perfumes for centuries.

Brandy

This is a type of strong alcohol made from distilled wine. We use brandy that is 80 proof (40% alcohol); this makes it a good preservative.

Brazilwood

The wood of the tree Caesalpinia echinata yields a red dye that has been used on both cloth and skin for centuries. It is native to Asia and South America.

C

Calamus

Another name for this plant is sweet flag. The fragrant root of this plant is used in a number of perfumed recipes. Acorus calamus now grows on most of the continets in the world.

Camphor

Cedar

Cedrus atlantica yields a fragrant, sweet and woody aroma. It is different from the "cedar" trees that grow in the eastern United States (Juniperus virginiana), which is actually a juniper and not a cedar.

Cinnamon

This popular spice comes from the bark of the Cinnamomum zeylanicum tree of south-east Asia. Its use in cooking, cosmetics, and incense dates back milennia.

Cloves

An Indonesian tree, Syzgium aromaticum, produces wonderfully scented flower buds, which are then used in cookery and cosmetics.

Coral

Don't worry, this isn't from any endangered coral.  Its gentle abrasion scrubs teeth, while the calcium that your body naturally absorbs from the coral is an added bonus!

Coriander

You may have some seeds of Coriandrum sativum in your spice cabinet. The leaves of this same plant yield the herb cilantro, which also makes it into various dishes, though the two spices have very different flavors and scents!

Cream of Tartar

Its scientific name is a mouthful: potassium hydrogen tartrate. You can find this byproduct of winemaking in the spice aisle at the grocery store.

Cubeb

Cypress

Evergreen trees from the family Cupressaceae produce an essential oil with a scent similar to pine.

D

Dragon's Blood

It's not from dragons, and it's not blood-- don't worry! It is the resin from the dragon tree, Dracaena draco, native to the Canary Islands. It does have a dark reddish color that resembles dried blood, but it is a secretion from a plant, not an animal. It is also used as gum incense, in the same way as frankincense and myrrh.

E

F

Frankincense

This is a gum incense of legend, and its use dates back many thousands of years. It comes from an African tree, Boswellia sacra, but through trade networks it could be found far and wide, even in ancient times.

G

Galangal

Alpinia galanga has a long history in East and Southeast Asia. The root of the plant is used in cooking and medicines. Although it is related to ginger, the scent is very different-- more of a deep, earthy aroma than the spicy ginger.

Glycerine

This is another term for glycerol. It is a byproduct of soapmaking, and is a colorless emollient (softens and smooths the skin).

H

I

Iron Oxide

Believe it or not, this is rust! When iron oxidizes (a natural chemical process-- the same reason a cut apple turns brown), it turns different colors. But, when powdered and presented in a very pure form, it is still used today as a colorant in modern cosmetics, even eye makeup.

J

Jasmine

Flowers from the genus Jasminum, native to tropical regions, yield a heavy, deeply floral perfume.

K

L

Lard

Pig fat that has been carefully melted down with all the impurities removed is called lard. It is used for many things, including cooking and cosmetics.

Lavender

This popular garden herb of the genus Lavandula is in the mint family. The scent appears in both the leaves and the flowers, both of which are prized for their aroma. Be careful, though-- some people are sensitive to lavender oil.

Lemon

Citrus limon, an evergreen citrus tree, produces fruit that you can find in the grocery store.The fruit's juice is acidic, making it a good astringent and mild antibacterial.

Lye

The chemical name for lye is sodium hydroxide (or sometimes it is potassium hydroxide; we use the sodium version). Lye by itself is a dangerious alkaline chemical, which should be handled with care. But, once it has combined chemically with a fat or oil, it becomes something completely new: soap! This is even how modern soaps are made-- you can't have soap without lye.

M

Mastic

This is an aromatic gum resin secreted by the Mediterranean tree Pistacia lentiscus, a relative of the pistachio. It is popular in Arab countries as a dental cleanser; you can buy mastic chewing gum at some Middle-Eastern grocery stores.

Mint

Many plants make up the genus Mentha; two of the most recognized are peppermint and spearmint. We use peppermint essential oil; peppermint has the most menthol of all the mints. This is what gives toothpaste and other products that tingly feeling.

Moringa Oil

Wildly popular in ancient Egypt for cosmetic and other uses, this oil comes from the kernels of the native moringa tree, Moringa peregrina. It is odorless, tasteless and very slow to go rancid.

Myrrh

This resin has been used since ancient times for incense, cosmetics, and medicine.

N

Natron

This is a naturally occuring mix of sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, and salt-- all in varying proportions. Deposits can still be found in Egypt, and it has been used since ancient times for a number of things-- most familiarly, in the process of mummification.

Nutmeg

This favorite spice comes from the Myristica fragrans tree native to Indonesia.  The part of the tree used is-- you guessed it-- the nut, or seed. You can find it in the cooking aisle of the grocery store.

O

Olive Oil

As you might guess, this is oil from olives. It is often used in cooking, and is a good eco-conscious oil, as oil makes up a large percentage of the olive, and so there is less energy required to extract it.

Orange-Flower Water

Orange flowers are a traditional bridal flower, as they symbolize purity (they are white).  The water made from distilling the essential oil (that is, the water that is left once the essential oil has been removed, also called a hydrosol) is orange-flower water, or orange-blossom water, which is also popular in Middle Eastern cooking.

Orris Root

This powder from a type of iris flower, Iris florentina, smells a bit like violets; it also helps preserve other scents.

P

Pearlash

This is an older term for the natural chemical potassium carbonate. It was used as a leavening (making bread rise) before the discovery of baking soda, which is sodium bicarbonate.

Q

R

Rose

Many, many varieties make up the genus Rosa, prized for centuries for its beautiful blooms and enchanting fragrance.

Rose Water

This is often used in Middle Eastern cooking. It is made from rose petals, but is not as expensive as rose oil.

Rosemary

This plant, native to southern Europe, is a relative of the mint family and common in herb gardens, cookery, even literature. ("There's rosemary, that's for remembrance", by Shakespeare in Hamlet.) Rosmarinus officinalis has been around for a long time, and it's no wonder, with its strong, captivating scent and many uses around the home and medicine chest.

S

Sage

The genus Salvia is in the mint family, and is a staple in many herb gardens. Common sage often shows up in cooking recipes. It has been used historically for cleansing the mouth and teeth, and modern herbals still recommend it!

Salt

Its chemical name is sodium chloride, and is most familiar as table salt.

Sandalwood (red)

This is different from yellow sandalwood, which is endangered. Pterocarpus santalinus is a tree that grows only in India, and can be killed if the temperature drops below freezing. The wood yields a reddish-orange dye that works on both fabric and skin.

Soap

We use a back-to-basics soap; it consists of lard, tallow, water, and lye. Lard is rendered pig fat, and tallow is rendered cow or sheep fat. (Rendering is the process of slowly melting fat so that it separates from any impurities.) Water you know about. Lye is a naturally occuring chemical, sodium hydroxide.  There is a misconception that "lye soap" is harsh. While it is true that soap can be made so it is harsh (this soap is not), all soap is made from lye-- otherwise you would not have soap! Soap occurs by a chemical reaction betwen lye and some kind of fat or oil; this reaction is called saponification. The many variations in soaps come from the other ingredients: what kind of fat or oil you use, whether you add scents, etc.

T

U

V

W

Water

We're sure you know what water is! Good old H2O...

Watercress

Nasturtium officinale seems like an odd addition to anything perfumed. But, it does have a delicate earthy smell that compliments the other ingredients. This water plant is far from being endangered; it is even an invasive species in some areas! But, it is also a nutritious green vegetable for those who like salads.

Wine

This is alcohol made from grapes.

X

Y

Z